Sunday, 19 February 2012

Inspiring Surry Hills Saunter


Wednesday 1st February 2012 Dept 1pm home 3.30pm.

Sydney's cool summer is perfect for serendipitous discoveries in Surry Hills. I had a couple of hours to devote to a short jaunt this afternoon. I had heard of a hidden gem called Mc Elhone Place and today was my chance to visit.
I hopped on the 426 bus at 1.15pm, gaggling students were in abundance today which left me wondering - do boys gaggle ? With the gagglers and bus behind me, Central Station loomed at 1.30pm. The throng of people charging up the Devonshire Street Tunnel absorbed me in their flow where I was aurally enraptured by a busker playing  music on a Chinese instrument.  Echoing footsteps followed me whilst I spied the lovely pictures on the tiled walls of this tunnel - trains, buildings and buses, this holds my interest until the end of the tunnel.


Central station
Elizabeth Street welcomed me at the end of the tunnel where I cross the road and head up leafy Devonshire Street. Large London Plane trees dominate Devonshire Street creating dense shade, a very hardy tree that is suited to the rigours of a city environment.  At the intersection of Riley Street is Eddie Ward Park with it's exercising  people. This park is the original "Strawberry Hill", at one point in the past it was a magnificent treed hill. Cross over Crown Street, which is a busy area of shops and cafes.  Not much further to Bourke Street where you turn left.

Bourke Street is lined with charming Victorian terraces behind leafy ( yes more) London Plane Trees. Today it was quiet with the occasional car.  There is also an excellent bike lane, thanks to Sydney City Council, that leads all the way to Oxford Street. I can see shops, a pub, coffee shops and the landscaping is glorious.  Turn right at Phelps Street which is a pleasant residential street that leads up to South Dowling Street where I turned left.  If you are in the market for antiques you will be pleased to find the Sydney Antique Centre, a large red and grey building, with a coffee shop.  The strident South Dowling Street is something that you want to escape from quickly, but it is important to have this loud assault on your senses so you can fully appreciate the oasis that is McElhone Place.

McElhonePlace


View up lane
Garden view
Quiet corner
Quiet Seat
A black post indicates the beginning of the lane. On my left is a wall of  ivy intermingled with jasmine. I can smell Franjipani and hear birds chriping. There is a Tibouchina with sparkling purple flowers and I can sense peace and tranquility. Every terrace has an abundance of floral beauty surrounding their walls and doors. There is a real sense of community support. There are pots of leafy lomandra and clivea, washing trouphs of  lavender,  pots of every shape and size, birds nest ferns, geraniums, boganvilleas, more jasmine, bromeliads, impatiens,   jade plants, iresine, poinsettias, petunias so much to take in. I can see a sandstone cottage and little leafy "caves" in which to hide away on a hot summer's day.  A simple plaque at the end of the lane says it all.

Olive Batty started it all

Plaque in street
"Ollie and her partner Jimmy were best known in Surry Hills as two of the original residents of McElhone Place.  Ollie was famous for the greening of the lane which started with a simple window box and some pot plants to break the monotony of concrete and ashalt around their home.  This was quickly copied by her neighbours until the street became the icon it is today.  Awards were given by the Sydney City Council and later the South Sydney Council for the unique garden she and the residents had developed.  Ollie was a woman who was truly loved by all who knew her, friends and family alike.   This plaque was unveiled by the mayour of South Sydney Coucillor Vic Smyth 3rd May 1997."

 With your spirits uplifted turn right into Marshall Street and left into Fitzroy Street.  Continue up Fitzroy Street, across Bourke Street, and you will be on the downhill run which is Foveaux Street.  This takes you back to Central Station.
 
Walking down Foveaux Street  has several points of interest. This is an area that is famous for wholesale fashion,  with factory outlets brimming with fashionable clothing at bargain prices.

As I sat back in my chauffeured vehicle (that is the 428 Bus) on the road to home, I imagined what a joy it would be if every Sydney resident adopted the ideas of Olive Batty.  My mind full of English place names - iconic words - Elizabeth, Surry, London, Mc Elhone, Devonshire, Oxford - one could be forgiven for thinking I had just trotted around a neighbourhood in England !

Destination: McElhone Place Surry Hills.
Route: Central Station and walk.
Suitable: Adults, prams.
Time: Allow at least 2 hours for wandering.

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